If “diamonds are a girl’s best friend” I feel privileged to introduce a dear friend whose knowledge of diamonds and other gems has landed her as a tour de force in the jewelry industry. Gina the Gemologist is wise beyond her years, earning recognition as top sales performer at several exclusive Portland, OR area jewelers since 2001. She has a deep passion for helping her clients find the “right” piece, style, jeweler, designer, and value.
I’ve experienced first-hand the extent of Gina’s mastery of gemstones, metals, design, and quality. She’s heard me confess numerous times, “I’m not a shopper”. Her bubbly reply is either a gloriously large grin or giggly nod. Shopping is just not my thing. Anyone who’s been following me knows that I much prefer minimizing. Until our joint project began. I’m still a minimizing geek, but we had so much fun. It was painless, it was anticipatory, she’s exceedingly patient as I formidably scoured for a design that called to me. A little back story, here’s what led to our shopping foray.
Years ago, my grandmother bequeathed her engagement ring to me. It was a jewelry box squatter for nearly 3 decades because I had no idea what to do with it. Not until I met Gina. I wanted to honor my grandmother, therefore, it never occurred to me to reimagine it. Her Antique Deco style fit her aura so well, not me. Furthermore, the size was much too large, and at some point, the band was resized. The back of the ring was cut and never resoldered. Someday it would pass from me, as is, to my daughter.
In comes Gina the Gemologist (aka the Jewelry Whisperer). She’s the impetus behind giving the ring a second look, a new look, a new purpose. Now it’s a stunning pendant that gets worn regularly.
I’m honored that Gina took the time to share her passion with us:
To determine whether jewelry is costume vs. precious.
The importance of appraisals.
To approach selling our jewelry or inherited pieces thoughtfully and lucratively.
To dispense negative energy from the jewelry we love.
Gina the Gemologist shows Kara Mack, host of KATU’s Afternoon Live how to check if gemstones are loose and proper ways to clean jewelry
I suggest that you watch the 4 short video clips for conversations with Gina about each of those topics.
And, after this blog published, Gina appeared on KATU’s Afternoon Live to share practical jewelry cleaning tips that you won’t want to miss.
Practical Sort (PS): Gina, before we dive, like me, our readers may be curious about the distinction between a gemologist vs. a jeweler. I’d consider you both. Are they interchangeable?
Gina Cobb (GC): A Gemologist is defined by Merriam-Webster as, “a specialist in gems specifically one who appraises gems.” I received my Graduate Gemologist diploma in 2013 from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), after taking several classes and correctly identifying 500 gemstones to distinguish whether they were natural, treated, plastic, glass, or assembled stones.
Whereas a jeweler is “a person or company that makes or sells jewels or jewelry.” So typically by definition I do not identify as a jeweler anymore. I was a jeweler for 17 years and still use those skills to help clients build their jewelry collection with meaning.
For me jewelry is beauty and a celebration of each piece I try on. I think about the person who mined the gemstone, the person who faceted the gemstone, the person who designed the jewelry, and the person that made the jewelry and set the stones. There are so many people involved in the making of jewelry. It’s soul nurturing.
So I developed a process to help people shop and/or redesign jewelry to fit their style so that they will enjoy it for the rest of their lives.
PS: When I’m working on an estate clear out or a downsizing project, it’s common to find individual pieces or a stash of jewelry. Then we need to map out next steps. Certainly our readers will inevitably face clearing out the estate of a family member or friend. Can you please give us some guidelines for determining if jewelry is precious/high value or costume? What are the clues?
GC: There are a lot of different things to look for and it can be tricky. I do recommend if there is a question to have it checked by me or a professional gemologist. Just a few weeks ago I was doing a Jewelry Box Assessment. We found a piece that had signs of natural gemstone, but it was in a box of costume. It turned out to be valued at $3500.
Is this ring costume or high value? Can you tell the difference?
I share this story, because often people think because I am a Graduate Gemologist I can look at a gemstone or piece of jewelry and know what it is. But the reason GIA makes us test 500 gemstones and put plastic stones mixed in with high quality gems is to teach us that there is no guessing. There are many things a gem can be, and testing is the only way to get the evidence. It takes a lot of practice and repetition to get comfortable looking for clues. A favorite part of my job is getting clarity for people on what they have. I am sure you see a similar transformation as you are helping your clients get organized.
I would also recommend that if you inherit a piece of jewelry, to look for any appraisal paperwork or purchase receipts to substantiate value. Visually inspect prongs and rub your finger over the surface. Even though you might feel like you don’t know what to look for, you will be able to see if all the prongs are there and whether stones are set crooked, loose, or missing. These are key things to look for. If you’re unsure, it is important to have it looked at. I do virtual calls and socially distant appointments.
PS: My goodness, there’s quite a bit to consider. Without proper training, no wonder I’ve felt at loose ends. Can you share a peak into your process or is it a trade secret?
Can you tell the difference between costume and precious jewelry? Whether buying, selling, or clearing out a family member's estate, decisions may be lucrative or costly.
GC: My method for assessing jewelry is to use a 10x power triplet loupe, an industry specific magnifying glass, which produces a sharp and distortion-free image. I look for signs of glue, look at how the prongs are holding the stone in and look for metal peeling off. I also look for a Jewelry Mark, a unique stamp that the jewelry maker puts on their jewelry much like a clothing label. For example Tiffany & Co., with a copyright, is placed on every single piece of a Tiffany & Co. product.
There is another important term to go with Jewelers Mark, which is known as karat stamps and hallmarks stamps. These are stamped on jewelry to communicate metal purity.
Hallmarks were started in London, England in the 1300’s to protect the public against fraud because of the high value of gold, silver and platinum. Hallmarks stamps communicate purity of mental and current market value.
If there is no stamp, Jewelers Mark or hallmark stamp that doesn’t necessarily indicate there’s no value. Sometimes when jewelry is sized or repaired, the goldsmith might need to remove it or not know it was removed. If that is the case there is a gold testing machine or acid test that can be used to test the metal to identify if there is a gold, silver or platinum value.
Gosh I know I am not giving easy answers to your questions, there are just so many variables with jewelry that do require a level of expertise. I hope this is helpful.
PS: Which is why you’re the expert. Is there guidance you can share to determine valuing costume jewelry?
GC: As I am learning the beautiful realm of costume jewelry there are many factors that come into play. Fun Fact, the term “costume jewelry” was coined in the 1920’s, yet costume jewelry was first documented in 1724 by Geroge Frederic Strass who developed special leaded glass to look like diamonds. You’re probably familiar with designer names like CoCo Chanel, Christian Dior, Trifari to name a few. All these costume brands will have Hallmark stamps on their jewelry so that you could look up online to see what a similar piece is going for.
Ensure high value jewelry with an insurance rider policy and list items separately
PS: Let’s talk about appraisals? Are they only important for insurance?
Has your jewelry been appraised? Why bother? A jewelry appraisal can save you money and hassles while also providing peace of mind. Here are just a few reasons why jewelry appraisals are beneficial.
GC: A formal appraisal is an important document to get a current market value for jewelry so that you can have it insured under your homeowners or renters insurance. To insure or not to insure jewelry is very personal. Like many things in jewelry it depends on the piece. Anything valued at $3000 or more is recommended to have an insurance rider policy and to list each piece separately so that if experience a loss, theft, or damage from falling down the garbage disposal, the jewelry could be repaired or replaced at little to no cost to you other than your insurance premiums. Establish peace of mind before tragedy strikes. When something does happen to jewelry there is an emotional loss and sadness. Having the monetary replacement options doesn’t heal the loss, but it does help the wallet when a person is ready to replace the jewelry item. I find that when jewelry is insured, the owner is more apt to wear and enjoy it.
PS: Yes, jewelry loss is so emotionally potent as I described the situation with my mom’s engagement ring in the Appraisal video. Relieving the financial pain is one less worry.
On to our next topic. Sometimes we have jewelry that no longer suits us or we inherit pieces that are not our style. So let’s explore selling. To get the highest return, can you share some guidance? I wouldn’t know where to begin.
Just a practical aside: I would never advise meeting at your own home. Select a safe, public location, perhaps even a jewelry store if you plan to self-sell.
Get top dollar for your jewelry when you decide to sell. How? Gina the Gemologist shares insights with The Practical Sort.
GC: There is so much to cover in this question and really too many variables. I would need to talk to the person to understand their goals before making recommendations. There are literally multiple ways to sell jewelry and it truly depends on the piece. Jewelry is very visual and looks can truly be misleading. I know of people that have had success selling jewelry privately. It is just a level of comfort and trusting yourself. I do the legwork liaising with local jewelry stores to get my clients the top value. Keep in mind that jewelry stores and consignment venues all have their own style and clientele and only want to acquire what they know they can sell. They want the least amount of risk.
To get the best deal whether you’re selling or purchasing, determine the condition of the piece. Does it show signs of wear? Are the stones chipped, scratched, or abraded? What types of gemstones are in it? What is the rarity of those stones? Is it a common design? Who is the designer? What is the metal and how heavy is it? How well made is it? If you’re not sure, seek professional assistance.
Have you ever noticed things going haywire when you wear particular jewelry? Gina the Gemologist shares tips with The Practical Sort to clear away negative vibes so you can enjoy your favorite pieces.
PS: Ok Gina, this is where we stray into alternative territory. Some readers might find this peculiar. However, I have noticed weird or negative experiences associated with certain earrings or necklaces. For example, last week when I was wearing a pendant just about every tech glitch you can imagine happened. Frankly, that wasn’t the first time. It seems like every time I wear it, those types of phenomena occur. What’s up with that and how do we remedy the energy so we can wear our jewelry with confidence?
GC: I understand and help clients clear energy from stones and metals. In the video, I will demonstrate a technique to help buyers know if a piece is right for them along with ways to clear adverse energy. There are specific techniques to use based upon the type of gemstone.
PS: Should we focus on particular thoughts such as releasing the energy?
GC: Like a mantra, talking about the story why you bought it like “this bracelet brings me joy and love and we’re just resetting it because it has taken on other energy.” It’s like an emotional reset.
PS: Yes, I’ve noticed how beneficial it is to reset my jewelry. This has been so informative. Gina, thank you very much for inviting us into your professional world via the blog and videos. Any additional thoughts you wish to share?
GC: We covered so much! Thank you for inviting me, and asking me such wonderful questions! You are a ray of shine sun in my life and the lives of so many. I am so happy to have you in my life.
Again, I want to invite you to watch the conversational videos with Gina for a more varied perspective on each of the questions.
Gina the Gemologist®
Jewelry Whisperer® Stylist & Appraiser GinaTheGemologist.com
Gina has been in the jewelry industry since 2001. Her in-depth knowledge of the industry, and unique ability to pair customers with the right jewelry, will give you confidence in making that purchase that will last the next 50 years and more!
